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Barriques
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A leading Italian winery includes the words “Save a tree”
on its labels, indicating that no trees, especially centuries-old
oaks, are sacrificed to age their wines: I am just sorry that this
noble concept is written in English, as if we Italians cared nothing
for respecting nature.
When men stopped living in caves they used wood to build their houses
(and still do so today), make boats, contain liquids and for tools
and utensils of all kinds. Nevertheless the more sensitive members
of humanity feel partly responsible for the devastation of the forests
that have made human survival possible on this planet.
This raises an important question for wine producers, who age their
wines in centuries-old oak from Transylvania, the Massif Central or
the American Mid-West. It pains me that once the tannins are used
up we are unable to re-use this beautiful wood, which is all too often
left to “rot” at the back of the cellar.
When it was suggested that I use square barriques, I refused scornfully;
but another visit to the back of the cellars, and the chance to re-use
the wood (un-curved and still young) for constructions or other purposes,
made me eat my hasty words.
The square “monsters” arrived and are now filled with
the precious fruit of the 2003 harvest, the gift of our new Le Spiaggiole
vineyards. At the same time we filled Slavonian and French demi-tonneaux
with the same wine: the cuvée francaise made from Merlot, Syrah,
Petit Verdot, Mouvèdre, Grenache Bouchée and –
in order not to seem unpatriotic – our own Primitivo, greatly
ennobled with the name Zinfandel.
Every two months we will take samples for a tasting test (blind of
course), and a wider-reaching lab test. The first will be held in
late April, and then continue regularly after bottling for at least
another year.
We will publish the results of these tests on our website, and invite
those interested to take part in the tastings in the wine store on
Saturday 26th June, Saturday 28th August and Saturday 30th October.
Environmentally correct? Yes, thank you. |
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